BULGARIA: Fifth Balkan apparel and textile exhibition in October

SOFIA: “Bgate 2007”, the Balkan apparel and textile exhibition will be held at the Inter Expo and Congress Center – Sofia from 4th to 6th of October 2007.

The Exhibition which is in its 5th year is the largest sourcing exhibition dedicated to worldwide professional in the textile and clothing industries.

Exhibitors in BGate come from all major sectors of the apparel and textile industries: Clothing, Textiles, Yarns, Accessories, Equipment and Services.

The exhibition organized by the Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers and Exporters and the Agency Bulgarreklama, brings together hundreds of leading Bulgarian firms and thousands of international professionals from the industry.

BGate targets companies seeking to expand their global competitiveness. Companies are realizing the need for consolidation of the Bulgarian apparel and textile industry. BGate is a forum that facilitates partnerships among industry professionals in neighboring countries.

Bgate exhibits branded apparel from Bulgaria and the Balkan countries. Producers of textile and clothing along with producers and importers of equipment and accessories for the Textile and clothing industry, providers of services are the participants in the exhibition.

Since its launch in 2003 BGate has demonstrated impressive growth. It attracted 120 exhibitors in 2006.

Yeşim Tekstil, Uzakdoğu'yla rekabet gücünü inovasyondan alıyor

Özellikle Çin'in başlı başına bir sorun haline geldiği tekstil sektöründe faaliyet gösteren Yeşim Tekstil, üretiminin tamamını ihraç ediyor. 2006 ihracat rakamı 260 milyon dolar. Bu başarının arkasında ise Yeşim Tekstil Genel Müdürü Şenol Şenkaya'ya göre inovasyona verdikleri önem yatıyor. Sektörün darboğaza girdiği dönemde ar-ge’ye, tasarıma ağırlık verdiklerini ve katma değeri yüksek ürünler üretmeye yöneldiklerini söyleyen Şenkaya, “Uzakdoğu'yla da ancak bu şekilde, inovatif bir firma olarak rekabet edebiliriz" diyor. 2006'da sadece ar-ge’ye 1,2 milyon dolar bütçe ayırdıklarını belirten Şenkaya, 2007’de bu rakamı yüzde 20 oranında artırmayı planladıklarını söylüyor.

NIKE'IN ONAYINI DA ALDI

Yeşim Tekstil'in kendine ait tüketiciye yönelik bir markası bulunmuyor. "Kendimizi sektörde 'üretici marka' olarak konumlandırmayı benimsedik ve bu strateji doğrultusunda dünyanın saygın firmalarına üretici marka olarak hizmet veriyoruz" diyor Şenkaya. Yeşim Tekstil'in hizmet verdiği firmalar arasında Nike, Gap, Banana Republic, Lands' End, Old Navy, Zara, BHS, Tchibo, Marks&Spancer gibi ünlü markalar bulunuyor.

Nike'ın tüm laboratuvar işlemlerinin gerçekleştiği Yeşim Tekstil, Nike’ın bu anlamda Avrupa’da onayladığı ilk firma. "Laboratuvarımızı çok üstün nitelikler isteyen Nike’a akredite ettirebilmek için bir dizi çalışmalar ve ciddi yatırım yaptık. Işık haslığı test cihazı satın alınması, kondüsyonlu odanın genişletilmesi, laboratuvarda klimatize bir ortam sağlanması ve eksik tüm ekipmanların tamamlanması için çalışmalar yapıldı.

Kalibrasyonlar, ISO 17025 belgeli kuruluşlarca yapıldı ve laboratuvarın akredite olması ve tüm eksiklerin tamamlanması için toplam 75 bin euro'ya yakın bütçe ayrıldı" diyerek yaptıkları çalışmaları anlatıyor Şenkaya.

AR-GE'NİN TEMELİ 1990'A DAYANIYOR

Yeşim Tekstil’de ar-ge’nin temeli 1990’lı yıllarda atılmış. 1999 yılında da ar-ge departmanı kurulmuş. 15 kişilik bir ekipleri bulunduğunu söyleyen Şenkaya, "Müşterilerin beklentilerine ve moda trendlerine paralel olarak doğal ve çevre dostu kumaşların yanı sıra, nano teknolojisini ve diğer kimyasal teknikleri de kullanarak yeni ürünler geliştiriyoruz ve hatta bunları üretmekle kalmıyor, tasarım ve koleksiyonlarımızla da gelişimimizi çok yönlü olarak sürdürüyoruz" diyor.

'İNOVASYON MAMUL ÜRETMEKTEN İBARET DEĞİL'

İnovasyon çoğunlukla yeni ürün ve hizmet geliştirmek olarak algılanıyor. Yeşim Tekstil için inovasyon sadece mamul üretmekten ibaret değil, üretim süreci, tedarik yönetimi ve çözüm üretme gibi pek çok yönü olan bir kavram. Şenol Şenkaya şöyle açıklıyor: "İnovasyon yeni mamuller yaratmanın yanı sıra, üretim süreci, tedarik yönetimi, çözüm üretme ve müşteri algısı gibi pek çok gelişimi de içinde barındırıyor. Biz de bu kapsamda ‘yalın imalat’ uygulamalarıyla yaklaşık 1,5 yıldır inovatif firmalar arasındaki yerimizi almaya başladık."

Yalın imalat çalışmalarında Kaizen metoduyla 6 aydan kısa sürede yapılan 150 proje sayesinde yaklaşık 1 milyon dolarlık tasarruf sağlanmış. Teslimat süreleri kısalmış ve müşteriye zamanında teslimat oranları artmış. Şenkaya için, tedarik zincirindeki inovasyon çalışmaları, şirketin pazardaki gücünü artıran en önemli unsurlardan biri.

YALIN AKADEMİ'Yİ KURUYOR

Yalın üretim sistemi, ürün odaklı ekiplerin, müşterilerinin gözünde değeri olan tüm işlemlerin kesintisiz akışından sorumlu olduğu bir yönetim ve üretim sistemi. Ekipteki herkes hatasız ve belirlenen sürede üretmek, makinelerin problemsiz çalışmasını sağlamak ve akışı kesintiye uğratabilecek anormallikleri fark ederek çözümüne yönelik hareket etmekle yükümlü. Böylece işler standartlaştırılmış ve sorumluluklar her düzeyde net olarak tanımlanmış oluyor. Bu da yüksek kalite ve düşük maliyet anlamına geliyor.
Şenkaya, yalın imalat uygulamalarının başarıyla sürdürülmesi için bu yıl içinde çalışanların teknik, analitik ve bireysel yetkinliklerinin artırılmasına yönelik olarak şirket bünyesinde kurulacak Yalın Akademi’de eğitimler verileceğini söylüyor.

Moisture Management Fabrics Market Set to Grow to Meet Demand for Performance Apparel

The market for moisture management fabrics is set to grow as apparel manufacturers shift their attention to the high-performance end of the sector and consumers place increasing importance on the performance of garments, according to the latest issue of Performance Apparel Markets.

Moisture management is one of the key performance criteria in today’s apparel industry. It is defined as the ability of a garment to transport moisture away from the skin to the garment’s outer surface. This action prevents perspiration from remaining next to the skin. In hot conditions, trapped moisture may heat up and lead to fatigue or diminished performance. In cold conditions, trapped moisture will drop in temperature and cause chilling and hypothermia. Excess moisture may also cause the garment to become heavy, as well as cause damage to the skin from chafing.

Any garment which is worn next to the skin or worn during exercise benefits from moisture management properties. The range of applications for such fabrics continues to expand as new fabric technology is released on to the market. In addition to sportswear and active wear, there is also growing interest in moisture management fabrics from the flame retardant apparel market.

Moisture is transported in textiles through capillary action or wicking. In textiles, the spaces between the fibres effectively form tubes, which act as capillaries, and transport the liquid away from the surface. As a rule, the narrower the spaces between the fibres in a fabric, the more effectively they will draw up moisture. For this reason, fabrics with many narrow capillaries, such as microfibres, are ideal for moisture transport.

Another factor which affects moisture management is absorbency. However, while greater absorbency increases the ability for moisture to be drawn into the fabric, the tendency of absorbent fibres to retain such moisture affects comfort levels, as the garment becomes saturated. It has been shown that fabrics which wick moisture rapidly through the fabric while absorbing little water help to regulate body temperature, improve muscle performance and delay exhaustion.

Generally, the most effective moisture management fabrics are high-tech synthetic fabrics which are made from polyamide or polyester microfibres. These are lightweight, are capable of transporting moisture efficiently, and dry relatively quickly. Moisture management capabilities can also be enhanced by using certain finishing processes, by varying the fabric or fibre construction, or by using a blend of fibre types.

"Push-pull" fabrics -- bicomponent materials composed of a non-absorbent material on the inside and an absorbent material on the outside -- have proved to be an effective construction for moisture management fabrics. This is because the absorbent material on the outside draws the moisture away from the skin while the non-absorbent material keeps the skin dry.

In terms of key producers, one of the world’s leading manufacturers of polyester-based moisture management materials is Invista. This company’s CoolMax and Thermolite brands are found in a wide range of garments for sports and outdoor activities. However, the pace of development has accelerated over the past ten years, and a growing number of companies are now competing with these brands. Well known names in this field include American Fibers and Yarn, Comfort Technologies, Hind, Honeywell, Intera, Intex, Lenzing, Marmot, Milliken, Mitsui, Nano-Tex, Nike, Patagonia, Pearl Izumi, Polartec, Reebok, Rhovyl, Schoeller, Tomen, USA-Pro, and Wellman. The number of polyester-based moisture management fabrics on the market has also increased dramatically in recent years, and includes Capilene from Patagonia and Polartec’s Power Dry.

As manufacturers of sports and active outdoor wear strive to improve the functionality of their collections, the future will see further developments in the field of moisture management fabrics. For example, the area of nano-fibres looks set to revolutionise the moisture management market. In addition, the next generation of "smart" textiles could see the development of fabrics which are able to respond to changes in the environment by adjusting their pore size or thickness to allow moisture through.

HER RENK VAR!

Kolombiya'da düzenlenen moda haftasında 2008 yaz koleksiyonunu tanıtan markalar arasında Agua Bendita da vardı. Latin Amerika'nın etnik motiflerine ve renklere bol yer veren firmanın kreasyonu izleyenlerden tam not aldı.

2005 yilinda bangladesh ziyaretimden kalan anilar.....

Bulgaria: Europe’s fastest growing textile and clothing producer gears up for further expansion

Bulgaria is the fastest growing textile and clothing producer in Europe, according to a report by Textiles Intelligence.

Between 2000 and 2006, Bulgarian production of textiles expanded by 152%, while output of clothing increased by 109%. By comparison, EU production of textiles fell by 21% over the six year period, while output of clothing fell by 32%.

Furthermore, as one of the two newest members of the EU, growth of the Bulgarian textile and clothing industry seems set to continue.

The textile and clothing sector’s success can be attributed to a variety of favourable factors.

Small to medium sized enterprises
Between 65% and 95% of firms within the Bulgarian textile and apparel industry are small and medium sized enterprises (SMEs). These types of companies are characterised by their ability to:

be flexible in their manufacturing operations;
react quickly to changes in clients’ needs;
provide speedy delivery; and
respond rapidly to requests for improvements in quality.
Geographical location
Bulgaria’s geographical proximity to the EU has enabled Bulgarian textile and clothing manufacturers to build strong relationships with customers in the EU and other nearby markets, especially when some of their closest competition in terms of price and quality are low cost Asian manufacturers in China and India.

Low wages
Average wage costs in Bulgaria are lower than in any other EU country (including Romania) and are also lower than in Sri Lanka, Indonesia and Russia. Salaries are on a par with those in Egypt, Mexico, certain parts of eastern China and Ukraine.

Labour costs play an important role in the competitiveness of textile and clothing manufacturers, particularly given the intense competition that manufacturers face from low cost producers in Asian countries. With this in mind, the fact that Bulgarian producers can compete with Chinese producers in terms of labour costs gives them an important advantage in an increasingly competitive marketplace.

Removal of hold-ups and tariffs at customs
As part of EU membership, trade between Bulgaria and other EU member states is free from customs duties. Also, hold-ups at border points have been minimised. This should result in quicker deliveries to EU export markets, shorter transportation times, and reduced logistics costs.

Harmonised health, safety and environmental (HSE) regulations
A number of government enforced regulations -- such as those relating to health, safety and the environment -- have been harmonised with those of the EU. As a result, Bulgarian manufacturers who achieve international quality and environmental certification will stand in good stead with European buyers. These improvements may also open up Bulgaria’s textile and clothing industry to a wider range of potential investors who enforce strict health, safety and environmental (HSE) policies with respect to their business operations.

European mentality towards doing business
Another competitive advantage is that Bulgarian textile and clothing industry enterprises have a more European mentality towards doing business than their competitors in low cost Asian countries such as China and India.

Fixed exchange rate
The Bulgarian Leva is pegged to the euro at a fixed rate (Lv1.95583:Euro1.00) and it is forecast that this rate will continue until 2010. For potential investors based in the EU, a fixed rate of exchange removes currency risk. By contrast, in countries where the exchange rate is not fixed to the investor’s home currency, investment values could decline if there were a significant fall in the value of the local currency.

Challenges
Admittedly the sector faces a number of challenges, and these need to be addressed if the future development of the textile and clothing sector is to be secure.

The migration of skilled workers, or a "brain drain"
One threat to the future of the textile and clothing industry in Bulgaria is that a large proportion of its skilled labour, particularly those who can speak English, will migrate to better paid jobs in other parts of the EU and leave the industry in Bulgaria short of skilled labour.

New regulations may force factory shut-downs
Companies may also find that adherence to new health, safety and environmental regulations is a challenge. Poorer companies may not be able to afford the costs which are necessary to implement changes to their business operations. Some closures may therefore be inevitable. However, on the positive side, the operations which shut down represent opportunities for foreign investors who are looking to buy production facilities in Bulgaria. Furthermore, the companies which survive will be fitter and leaner, and therefore better able to survive in the post-quota era.

Low labour productivity and underinvestment
Labour productivity in the Bulgarian textile and clothing sector equates to only 38.1% of the EU average, and the level of investment in new equipment and capacity expansion is low. Bulgarian clothing manufacturers are reluctant to modernise because they are unable to recoup their investment costs by raising prices without losing their competitiveness. Consequently, any increases in costs must be borne by manufacturers through a reduction in profit margins.

Reliance on textile imports
The Bulgarian clothing sector tends to rely on imported textiles from other countries rather than use domestically produced textiles. This often leads to longer production lead times and hence slower response, as well as higher raw material costs.

The output of the Bulgarian textile sector is not large enough to support the local clothing market. Consequently, unless there is a concentrated burst of investment in the textile industry, clothing manufacturers will remain dependent on imports of textiles for their raw materials and their profit margins will be decided in part by the price of textile imports.

Outlook
In general, it seems that the textile and clothing industry in Bulgaria is on a knife edge. On the one hand, investment will be needed if the industry is to maintain the growth pattern witnessed since the start of the decade. There is also known to be a grey economy, and illicit working practices will need to be stamped out now that Bulgaria is part of the EU. On the other hand, Bulgaria has a number of advantages as the lowest cost EU country. EU membership may encourage much needed large-scale investment in the sector. This would boost productivity, increase economies of scale, create new jobs and generate higher value exports.